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I've done several 'setups' for my guitars and other peoples guitars and basses. I adjust the truss rod (if needed) first using a capo on 1st fret while pressing the 13th or the fret where the neck meets the body and use a feeler gauge to check the gap.
After that I adjust the action by lowering the saddles all the way down and raising it until it's comfortable and buzz-free. Last step for me is intonation. My 'methods' are not guitar tech methods but get the job done fast and with good results. Of course you could get go more indepth with other methods and measurements to satisfy the player's needs. The order that's worked best for me is:If you need fret work (i.e.
Leveling, resetting loose ones, etc.) I like to do the truss rod first to as dead straight as possible. Makes it easier to use straight edges to ensure all fret tops line up on straight neck.If you're lucky, string tension will pull just the right amount of relief when you tune up, but on some guitars I've found you have to use truss rod to dial in a little relief.Then adjust action-i.e. Bridge/saddle height. I also take care of string radius adjustment while I'm adjusting saddle height. I don't waste a lot of energy dialing in just the right radius-I'm more concerned with good action on each string than getting the radius to perfectly match the fretboard.Nut can be done pretty much any time, generally file slots in relation to 1st couple of frets.
Unless nut is unusually badly fitted, in which case, do a preliminary filing as jefrs suggests, first, to get you in the ball park when you get to bridge/saddle height.I do intonation last. Jefrs has excellent point in bringing up Peterson strobe tuner. It can be devilish hard to intonate by ear, or using standard music store tuners.Reiterate, if necessary.
Also at this point, might decide neck shim/neck angle adjust is in order to fine tune action.See post #3 above. They definitely all have impact on one another, and it's not unusual to go through the steps, or repeat some of them several times to get it just right.The one that's hardest to undo is nut filing, but it's the one that's least dependent on the rest. I have made some temporary 'saves' with bone dust and super glue, but it just does not seem right.I've always done set ups with the guitar on its back, with a folded towel/cloth, etc. Under the neck to support it. Some pros, such as Dan Earlewine say they hold the guitar in playing position to do setups. I guess in theory, this is correct, but the few times I tried it, it was so clumsy and difficult, I reverted to guitar on its back. Doesn't seem to make any adverse effects, but maybe I don't have as critical an ear as I should.Anyone else have any experience/thoughts about this?
I always do the nut first (assuming frets are ok) because it is impossible to do the truss rod properly until that is done. New nuts on new guitars are always too high because you can only file them down.
I always finish nut slots with the strings on, they lift out - try-fit, measure twice, cut once.I always do the truss rod with the strings at concert.Setup is interactive, repeat truss rod and saddle height until it's right, then do intonation. I cannot do intonation with new strings because they are not stable, I like them played in, not worn out.
I do setup on the bench (rubber bath mat and sandbag for support), intonation on my lap.Can't do intonation until setup is good. With a 3-barrel tele the saddle length is a compromise - the nut controls the intonation at the headstock end, which is why this must have the correct height slots. If you have any problems with it pulling sharp over 1-7 then it will be the nut.I've used the CA and baking powder/bone dust or Milliput, but you really need six spare nuts because accidents do happen. Nuts is cheap.
Back in the day (mid 60s) Fender produced a leaflet on adjusting the truss rod with a cartoon moustachioed character 'Maestro Von Fenderstrummer' who instructed you to lay the guitar on a flat padded surface, get a friend to hold the body firmly, then push down on the head a little so that the rod is not under tension, then adjust 1/4 turn clockwise to tighten (straighten) or anticlockwise to loosen to add some relief. I still have one of these leaflets somewhere, and while this instruction works with necks/rods adjusted from the body end (as they all were in 60s), it may not with the later head end rod adjustment. CARE should be taken not to overdo the head/neck pressure. I usually set my truss rod first (using a notched straightedge), and then once the neck has settled (which can take a day or so), i go to work on the action and intonation.but like others have said, they all go hand-in-hand. On a guitar that is totally out of whack, i generally plan on at least a week before it's set up right for me. On a guitar that's 'almost perfect', i still give it two or three days, but i'll also keep tweaking it for a few more (so i guess it still works out to about a week either way also, this is assuming the nut is cut properly and the frets are levelled (most good shops really should at least check those for you.)it also depends on where you live. If you're in a place that has drastic climate changes season to season, it's not going to help to setup your guitar in January and then expect it to be the same in May!if i HAD to give you a set of 'rules' in a particular order, it would probably be this:1.
Truss rod adjustment (using a notched metal straightedge.)2. Action (the height of your saddles)3. Intonation (intonation is very important, but isn't as noticeable in the first and second postions, which is why i put it last.)keep in mind these all change, but your neck (truss rod) adjustment is pretty much the basis of you setup. This is why i HIGHLY recommend that you adjust it based on a metal straightedge, rather than by feel.once your guitar's neck has settled in and is 'right', action and intonation are MUCH easier. To the OP: just as kind of a 'by the way' sort of suggestion.you might want to look into getting a notched straight-edge. You can get them from StewMac, but in this case, i find theirs to be WAY overpriced (about $75) and you can easily make on yourself.
All you need is a precision-ground metal straightedge: either a yardstick or a 24' one will work. You can often find precision-ground ones at art, machininst's- or drafting-supply places, for around $20. You just want to make sure that the edges are ground perfectly straight.then get yourself a set of 'jeweller's files' (also know as 'needle' or 'precision' files), you shouldn't have to pay more than about $7 for a decent set. Then set your straight-edge along your fretboard, so that one end butts up against the nut. Carefully mark each fret position with a Sharpie, and then use the round needle file to notch at each fret location, making sure that the notch is deeper than your frets are tall (in other words, when the straight-edge sits on the fretboard, you don't want any part of it touching the frets.
You want the straight part touching the fretboard wood, not the frets.)straight-edged rulers come in steel and aluminum (mine is aluminum, because it's a bit easier to file than steel), but it doesn't really matter which one you pick.
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